"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times..." Charles Dickens

As we write from DC, we are very excited to return later this month for a 6 week working vacation and then again for the 3 month summer season beginning in June.  It has remained a New Year's resolution to get "Postcards..." up and running by the beginning of this year.  Our intention is to trace the developments at the property as it transitioned from a family home to a B&B while also offering a glimpse into everyday French country living.

By way of background, Veronique was born in this house where she spent her childhood years up until her late teens.  She then worked for most of the next 30 years in the US and traveled extensively in the Caribbean, South America as well as touring across most of North America in her RVs.  An accomplished photographer, she continues to work as a catering chef/manager.  Peter, a United States national, also has many years in the hospitality industry.  Born in Charleston, SC, educated in New England and California, he splits his time between Washington, DC and Southwest France.  Married in 2001, we keep an ungrateful barn cat as our constant companion during our visits.  Like Henri, le chat noir, Pichoune (or 'little one') is a master of camouflage but cares not whether she is seen.

La Belle Charentaise B&B

The house at the time of purchase in 2005

In brief, elements of the house date back as far as the 18th century.  Like many French farm houses, additions were built on and up by succeeding generations when time, need, opportunity and funds allowed.  Veronique's family has lived in Charmeneuil and farmed the nearby fields since before both the American and French revolutions.

We purchased the property from Veronique's siblings in 2005 and work began soon after.  Before demolition and construction could begin in earnest, converting part of an adjacent old farm building into a finished, two story apartment for Colette, Veronique's mother, became a priority.  We both have fond but scary memories of Colette sitting in the big house living room knitting with her cat, dust falling on them both, as we knocked the walls down upstairs.  After 5 years living alone in the original house following the death of her husband Joseph, the small apartment provided her with a cozy new home and a grand view of the house and garden.  With a front row seat and a fresh vantage point, Colette witnessed yet another transformation of the Maison de Maitre (master's house) which she had inherited from her grandparents.  As with most great tasks, the project required a giant leap of faith.

The house & old barn during Colette and Joseph's time

Work in the big house began with extensive demolition, removing and ultimately replacing walls, restoring wood floors, sandblasting ceiling beams and cast iron radiators, etc.  Though especially miserable during the winter months, we remained dedicated to hard work, attention to detail and an unwavering commitment in our pursuit of excellence.  Warm weather in summer provided an opportunity for Veronique to climb the scaffold (see below) every day for weeks as she first chiseled away the old grey concrete around every stone and then replacing it with a more neutral, sandstone grout.  Peter busied himself year round and in all weather hauling debris to the village dump.  We worked at a feverish pace for a period of years and were rewarded with significant progress at the end of every visit.  As luck would have it and given the seasonal nature of our work in food&beverage here in DC, it was within the realm of possibility to fly over to France for extended periods of time at least twice a year.  

The main facade gets a face lift...

Restoration before, during and the after of the western and northern facades. Note: parts of the original 
stone structure in top photos were briefly visible as is the red brick addition 
and outdoor staircase Veronique's father completed in the 1960s

Friends & relatives from across France and as far away as the US helped out 
with a variety of tasks during their visits

Local artisans provided the expertise for most all of the new electric, plumbing, masonry and the heavy work on the grounds.  But we assisted where and whenever possible, often with family and friends.  This included moving new material in and the old stuff out, gardening, carpentry, painting, crépi (a rustic plaster), tile work, design, and so forth.  In time, we became proficient and our skill set expanded to such a degree that we saved a small fortune.  Producing the cache misère (literally a 'hidden misery') quickly became a specialty for us during renovation years and the property is full of them.  As shown in the pictures below, for example, it was important to conceal the cinder blocks of the old barn.  When originally built, the second floor had been left open as storage for hay to feed the animals below.  We elected to cover it all with rustic boards set on top a simple wood frame. 

Colette's apartment was completed in 2006. On the left,
note the exposed cinder blocks used to enclose the stable attic

In 2011, we built a studio to the left of Colette's apartment at the
 ground level. The following year we added a separate loft above

Work was often delayed by unforeseen problems.  Furthermore, whatever Joseph built was strong and made to last.  As our friend Jean-Claude noted, "This old house has many surprises and secrets."  But despite the occasional set back we always returned to the US with a genuine sense of real accomplishment.  Over time, improvements to the house and grounds began to take shape and we could move inside to begin tiles, painting, selecting art work and other furnishings, adding decorative touches... blah, blah, blah.

One of the last major projects before opening for guests was redoing the terrace between the kitchen and the pool.  What followed required important decision making, problem solving, big head and back aches, and more surprises. Initially, and after much debate over cost/labor estimates, materials, aesthetics, design and layout, we devised a plan that would require the help of two talented maçons or 'stone workers', a surveyor and no small amount of work on our part.  But less than halfway through we all realized there would not be enough stone to complete the deck and more of a similar pattern could not be purchased anywhere.  Some quick and nimble thinking, mostly by the experts, produced a well thought out formula (don't ask) and ultimately satisfying solution.  With this essential project behind us, everyone can now enjoy the terrace after a swim, take a bain de soleil, read a book or play a board game, perhaps even share a picnic or simply to just relax before drinks and dinner. 



The terrace during Colette's time

A contractor rips up the old terrace in early fall 2007

Today for our guests to enjoy...  

And so it is open!  Even though the paint was literally drying around the front door when the Gîte de France (the B&B national organization) officials came to inspect the property in July 2008, we still passed.  We started with 4 bedrooms and another one was finished in 2010.  Our Chambre d'hôtes or 'guesthouse' as they are known in France, can accommodate up to 18 persons.  The B&B operates at near capacity during the summer. Several nights a week, we cheerfully proposed to our guests la Table d'hôtes or 'guest table' - a 4 course family style dinner preceded by an aperitif.  Not surprisingly, the menus rely heavily on local products including those from our vegetable & herb gardens, fruit trees & bushes.

The learning curve for us both was extremely steep every inch (or centimetre) of the way.  Yet the results mostly speak for themselves and are enjoyed by everyone.  In summer the house is full of friendly guests and excited children, quiet nights and sunny days, fresh breakfasts and family style dinners.

With the large scale projects behind us, it remains important to maintain what we worked so hard to achieve.  A house of this size with a indoor pool and multiple gardens require near constant attention but we will continue to create new postings for interested readers in the coming months and years.

Even the barn cat takes a moment from her busy day to
take in some afternoon sun on the terrace